MAY-B-1
THE EVEREST TREK ROUTE AND ATTEMPT
TO SUMMIT KALA PATTHAR
- May-B-1 Index to the May-B-series of Nepal-02 on the Everest
Trek Route
- Setting out on the Everest Trek Route from Lukla, site of
our one week of medical camp, and hiking up through Phakding and toward Munjo
for our first overnight on the trek.
- Everest trek day #2 from Munjo to Namche Bazar, crossing
swaying suspension bridges over the roaring Dodh Khosi River, hiking up the
Kumbu Valley, sharing the trails with only Sherpas and yaks, arriving in the
Sherpa capital of Namche Bazar in time to meet the Everest marathoners, and
regroup at Trekker’s Inn for the next day’s climb
- Everest trek day #3: the steep trek up from Namche Bazar
to Thangboche monastery in time to hear the monk’s prayers: a marvelously
clear day with the whole of the Roof of the World before us: Everest, Lohtse,
Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku: now, at 3,865 meters, and with 88% o2 saturation,
I may be permitted a critique of the Buddhist prayer service: I have characterized
it as a Richmond Virginia tobacco auctioneer interrupted frequently by flugelhorns
and the belching blare of the didgeridoo
- Everest trek Day #4: And now, the going gets high, with
a few of our group feeling ill, as we visit Pangboche Monastery with the head
lama and visit Lakpa’s home and family; we go higher still through treeline
at the 4,200 meter altitude of Pherche, where I decide to go for a run along
the glacial outflow upon arrival
- Everest trek Day #5: Pushing higher, we leave Pherche through
Thukla to climb to Loboche, and elect to push on higher still to the discomfort
of all, as we cross through 5,000 meters on the Kumbu Ice Floe to arrive at
Gorap Shep, where no one still has an appetite nor ability to turn in for
a restful sleep, in preparation for the ascent at dawn of Kala Patthar
- Everest Trek Day #6: Summit Day on Kala Patthar! 5/8’s
of the trekkers and 3/7’s of the Sherpas make a successful summit attempt
at the 5,550 meter peak of the “Black Rock” with a spectacular dawn over Everest,
Lohtse, Nuptse, illumining Pumari, Ama Dablam and the Roof of the World;
However, several trekkers are miserable, and we plan a drowsy, weary, rapid
descent through Loboche, Thukla and Pherche toward Pangboche for recovery
after dropping over a thousand meters to stay in Nimi’s Village
- Everest Trek Day #7: Descending rapidly from Pangboche
through Thangboche, the early clouds clear to a bright day in transit through
herds of Tahr, and an on-the-trail meeting of Chris Tait, National Geographic
photographer, returning from the “Three Sons on the Summit” shoot to return
home; we go through Namche Bazar and arrive for our final night where we
spent our first night on the trek—at the Mt Kailash Lodge in Munjo
- Conclude Everest Trek on Day #8: Leaving Munjo through
heavy yak train traffic over the suspension bridges heading for the Saturday
Namche Bazar market, I hike far ahead of the group and arrive early at Lukla
in rainclouds, to post my serial letter describing the trek and walk clothed
into the week’s first shower to do laundry and repacking: the big Sherpa
celebration of the successful trek and the ceremonial dinner and tip awarding
at the conclusion of our trek and medical camp
- Leaving the Nepali Himalaya from Lukla, we return to Kathmandu
to the Hotel Manaslu for shopping and a final wrap-up and a celebratory evening
with Nimi at a dinner in her home
- My re-entry into communication and the Nepali capital of
Kathmandu after isolation for a week in medical camp in Lukla, Nepal (see
May-A-series 1-8) and my return from a successful Everest trek of 100 miles
of “flat” hiking along the “roof of the world” with over a mile of additional
altitude climbedtoward Everest base camp along the Dodh Khosi River and Kumbu
Valley and Glacier; and a successful summiting of Kala Patthar, our goal of
a 5,550 meter peak at dawn to look down on Everest Base Camp and the Kumbu
Icefall, and to look up at the world’s tallest peaks surrounding us on a clear
dawn view of Everest and the Himalayan Massif (see May-B-series 1-12)
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