04-APR-C-16

 

FINAL DAY CRUISING AMAZON ON ‘ORION”

BEGINS WITH AN ON-DECK CRUISE THROUGH

 THE BREVIS STRAITS IN THE NARROWS,

BETWEEN KIDS PADDLING OUT IN CANOES TO GREET,

AND THE SPOTTING OF A “LIFER”—THE HARPY EAGLE—

BEFORE LECTURES, CEREMONIES, AND FAREWELL DINNER

ON BOARD IN PACKING AND PARTING FROM ORION

 

April 30, 2004

 

            Amazing!  As if to commemorate our passage into our final day aboard the Orion through the Brevis Straits, also called the Narrows, we gathered on deck with the naturalists and birders at 6:30 AM. Dennis, one of the birders who comes from Costa Rica had just said to Carol, “What he would really like to see would be a Harpy Eagle, since that would be a life time “first” for him, to spot the continents largest and most powerful raptor--:Hey! What is that?”  Sure enough—we have scored the Harpy Eagle in the wild in addition to the close-up views at the Leticia Zoo, so there are lots of happy campers here about.  So happy in fact that we will name the Brevis Straits on the GPS mark here not the BREVIS, but HARPY at 1* 06. 3587 S and 50* 58. 0117 W right off the Captain’s GPS reading on the bridge, so we should be able to come back and find the nesting pair of which this was the male.

 

            We were up on deck for the transit through this narrower—even if longer—route to the Atlantic to Belem, a city that is a contraction in Portuguese of the name “Bethlehem” and is the principle port city of the Amazon, which we will view tomorrow as we leave the ship.  The city has 1,200,000 inhabitants and is the portal originally founded in 1616 to control the borders with the French Dutch and English to the north of the single most important waterway in the Continent.  Along this narrow channel, with its flooded forest at this high water point in the year, with five foot tides even though the water is not brackish (the ocean is not powerful enough to push salt water this deeply into the onrush of the largest outpouring of water fro any river on earth) and there are house s on stilts along the way.  For that reason the boat pilot has to go slowly, at about ten knots speed with the current going out, so as not to throw a wake that would wash out houses or disturb the narrowly converging forest margins. Besides, there may be barge traffic on the river through this channel and the ship has to do this only by daylight, with the blasting of the horn for any heavy ship traffic.

 

            What I saw in large quantity were hundreds of dugout canoes, often paddled by little kids, often nude, often in whol family groups, with kids as young as two years old bobbing on the wake of Orion in dugout canoes being paddled with perhaps two centimeters freeboard at their ‘Plimsol Lines.”  We saw endless kids coming out to greet, waving at us, and not seeking so much to beg, or to attach themselves to us, as just to see this floating package of a far away world.  This must be what it was like for Captain James Cook to enter the Polynesian Islands and have the wahines paddling up to greet the ships and give them gifts of breadfruit and whatever other favors they could give from their naked selves.  It was a real kick to continue this fantasy as one dugout canoe had a pair of teenagers in it that had—of all things—bikinis on.  It seemed all the others had shorts or something leas, but this pair was out to flirt, and to show off that they were not central jungle Amerindians, but Braziliearas and Garotas at that.

 

            We watched much of the morning, with the continuing show—of them for us, and probably even more of us for them—and also saw occasional lumber mills and then huge woodlots of the deforestation of which the Amazon is best know by alarmists everywhere.  We have had a lot of ecotourist information on board, and the simple answer to the questions posed by some environmental groups and by the popularizing of such rock stars as Sting—it is not an easy question with a very facile solution.  There are not simple right and wrong answers—a summary that should have been apparent after my lectures and a few of the others.  Even if a few folk were still shaking their heads and demanding “Just what must we think, therefore?” the questions, if posed directly and correctly, remain open and have no dominant group with the right or wrong response.

 

            I had watched beyond the lumber mills and the fishing villages along the narrow straits as we went further downstream on the still rising tide, and passed river towns of some size.  We are leaving the uninhabited—and in some places, uninhabitable—rainforest, and entering riverine port country.  We will be going further to reach the outlet than we would have had we followed the northern route that comes close to the 00* Equator line, adding two hindered miles to the journey, meaning that the Amazon if measured through the Belem route that is the most common traffic direction is actually longer then the Nile’s 4,100 miles.  We will be having many final ceremonies today, including a cultural discussion of the Samba and the Bossa Nova, as well as the Captain’s slide show on the construction of the Orion for this maiden voyage, and then the farewell Captains’ dinner and the slide show made by the group and its official photographer along with the naturalist’s own digital cameras which will be carried home by each of us on a CD.  I will be carrying home over 30 rolls of exposed film—and in this instance, I do mean “carrying” since there is no way I would entrust this stock to the tender mercies of the X-Ray now in use at the ports of each environment I must pass.  It may be a primary reason for converting over from film to digital to take along less in the way of susceptible film through the people like the one I met at Lima, who took my camera off the belt and ran it through three times more in the X-Ray examination, since I had isolated it out for a search rather then the X-Ray clearance I had hoped to avoid.  This is no doubt part of their photojournalism promotion program.

 

AFTERNOON OF LECTURES, DEMONSTRATIONS,

AND PRESENTATIONS ON EVERYTHING FROM THE CONSTURCUTION AND LAUNCH OF THE ORION FOR THIS VOYAGE, TO THE RHYTHMS AND PATTERNS OF SAMBA

VERSUS BOSSA NOVA

 

            Xhe Artur played and sang the difference between the regular rhythm of the samba which could be accompanied by an instrument even so unsophisticated as a matchbox, and had to be sung while walking, since these were poor street performers at the time of Carnival who could not perform indoors and had to take to the streets.  The Bossa Nova was an indoor parlor music and was a-tonal and with a syncopated “off key” sound.  The samba could be considered the Negro spiritual and the Boss Nova the jazz derivative.

 

            We heard Carol talk about her experience in the canopy research station in Ecuador affiliated with Boston University and the new University San Francisco de Quito with which I had contact from the University of Florida at Gainesville from last spring’s inaugural world health day.  I also heard John Howard talk about deforestation just as we went through the parts of the Narrows where there are lots of sawmills and floating logs cut from the Amazon.  I then heard the Captain explain how the Orion was built, with at least 50% of its cost in the ice-hardening for the polar cruises, for forty million Euros.  A German bank holds the mortgage and Travel Dynamics has chartered it.  It has ribs only 15 cm apart, with stainless steel propeller and hawse pipes and ice knives around the screw.  Its bulbous nose is made of stainless steel with the bow and stern electric thrust motors also special for the ice.  We did not need the stabilizers on this cruise as they would in crossing the Drake Passage but they would not be used in ice conditions since they are not ice hardened.  Its maximum speed is 16 knots, and it goes at 750 rpm of its 3500 hp diesel main engine ten cylinders on a variable pitch four-bladed prop with fuel consumption of 13 tons a day of the 310 tons it carries. It can make three hundred tons of potable water with its two reverse osmosis membranes, and also has 300 tons of “technical water” which it use s to run the laundry and the deck washing since that is the condensate from the A/C.  It is an interesting ship now on its maiden voyage with a good report on its performance.

 

AFTER MY LAST AMAZON SUNSET ON DECK

I AM PREPARING FOR THE CAPTAIN’S RECEPTION AND FAREWELL DINNER

 

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