JAN-A-6
THE UNIQUE AND HAUNTINGLY BEAUTIFUL
ISLAND WILDERNESS OF
AND OUR SPECIALLY PRIVILEGED POSITION IN
IT,
TO VIEW IT, EXPERIENCE IT, AND ENJOY IT,
WHILE WILDERNESS AND RETAINED RIGHTS
LEASES
STILL ALLOW US TO DRIVE AND HIKE IT,
APPRECIATE THE “
AND EVEN HOG HUNT!
January 9—15, 2004
It was a wonderful hunt! And, I never fired a shot—not even at a paper target! But, it was the right group of people with a good representation of first-timers in one of the last hunts, and two father and son teams—enough to make me jealous! And we each got to see the island with a bit of a tour guide—mois—and then see the excellent public Television video of Cumberland Island, a van Kloot film, that gave the historic background, the political turmoil and the fending off the grandiose development plans to keep Cumberland Island the unique and pristine wilderness island it is. This makes the hunt on Cumberland Island in the wilderness a paradox with a number of factors weighing in against it—but here we were, once again, enjoying it to the full. It is nearly overwhelming to a first-timer, with the thought that we are carrying rifles through a national park wilderness, in an environment as untouched as if it were pre-historic, or as if we were early African explorers of a dark continent of unknowns—yet without spending more than the gas and 12 hours it took each of us to get here in smooth drives down from Maryland and other points.
DRAMATIS PERSONNAE OF THE 04-HUNT
We were
nine in total, with four first-timers.
There were two no-shows, one of whom I had looked forward to being on
the island with before the hunt and even after exploring the island, indulging
in a retreat at Greyfield Inn’s elegant dinner.
But, when the walk-through was postponed and
Now who did participate?
Mois—huntmeister and naturalist tour guide.
Dale
Kramer—my friend and head of the D G Liu project on remodeling Derwood. I had been with him on New Year’s Day and
then visited with his family—not dissimilar from mine—and we had also gone on a
Tom and Drew Griffioen—my nephew and great nephew, drove down, with whom I had gone on December 26 to hunt does with a muzzle loader in snowy Michigan. Drew and I in a treestand spotted three does and Drew shot one. This was a great time for them, as the first time they could ever have even imagined such a hunt, and they enjoyed it from the bottom up—and they both got to see and shoot at hogs! Drew learned more than if he had been in school, and learned how to appreciate many things except for oysters and soft-shell crabs!
Bill Webster—my Somerset County host and the one with whom we have gone deer hunting the last several years made it to Cumberland this year. Bill teaches Vo Tech in Princess Anne, and is a wonderful teacher for the guys there, but had not taken a day off in 26 years. When I had tried to get him down before, he said he would be available after he retired. When the others in the school heard about this and the “sunsetting” of the hunt and its experience in Wilderness Cumberland, they insisted he go. We convoyed down and I had helped drive between Bill and Dale. Bill also contributed a marvelous treat to the feast, carrying over a dozen dozens of frozen soft-shell crabs ( which everyone but Drew welcomed as a superb appetizer) with the chaser being an even better appetizer course—the fried oysters he fixed up for our Tuesday dinner preceding our main course. We did not suffer from any lack of calories. Bill was carrying his hand-picked Christmas present—a stainless steel lever action 45/70 Guide Gun. My only regret is that he did not paste a hog with it.
These were the four first timers who were the focus of my efforts to be sure they had a good time in this most enjoyable wilderness which it is a privilege to share while we still can. They really liked it—both the sightseeing in the historic and natural history and the scouting and hunting in wilderness as well.
Craig and David Schaefer—the consistent father and son team, but especially good this year since they had a chance to talk about real life on the way down as David, now 21 had to think about what would be possible for him to make a living and get a real job, now that he has demonstrated that he can at least get back to school with a prospect of finishing there at Towson State. David had hunted with us four years last year when he finally scored on a good hog. Craig and I were both happy just to be here whether we shot—or shot at—anything at all. Craig used the occasion as an excuse to buy a new gun, a Spanish semiautomatic assault .308 with all the fancy attachments to it. He blew up a fair amount of sand in sighting it in, and was ready to take on the island’s ugly residents, but he and I and Bill were the only ones that had not fired a shot by the time that the hunt was over—although each of them fired off a fair number of rounds against paper.
Paul Gibbs—an old timer, who has forgotten his lunch, his gun, and every other part of the hunt except the jokes he re-tells, forgetting who it is that told them to him in the first place. Paul is somewhat limited by heel spurs, so he did not put on much mileage, and if a hog accidentally ran his way he was going to open up with the .243 I had once used (Chris’s gun) for deer hunting as long ago as eighteen years back when we first deer hunted in Georgia. Paul enjoys the cuisine, cigars and a fine dinner (especially since he can label them all as Atkins Diet) which is good since Betty Rose and Melissa had put together the menu planning. For the first time I had not been the principle grocery getter as I always am in the elk camp and the menu planning that BR had done was our guide for the redundant dinners and lunches we enjoyed. The menus included the low-end items such as a full tenderloin of beef, lasagna, pasta with Melissa-made sauce, and we never did get to the hamburgers and more ordinary fare that went back off the island. We had excessive munchies and lunch stuff for our mid-day snacks and on the hunt support.
Rich
Reinert—flew in from
So, Rich, Paul, Dale and Bill and I arrived on Saturday in time of the noon ride over with all our groceries and gear at noon, with a little time for the blustery cold weather to clear, which it did in fine style with an even nicer return trip on the Lucky on Wednesday than the days we had spent there, despite the cold, cloudy and sandy start. I called Tom and Drew who were on the dock in time to come over on Saturday evening and I could take them straight away to see the ghosts of Dungeness’s ruins before the moon rose. I called Craig after I returned from my exhilarating Sunday morning beach run, and came down to pick Craig and David up at 1:00 PM on Sunday afternoon.
EXPLORING
ESPECIALLY FOR THE FIRST-TIME TOURISTS
AND HISTORY BUFFS
We loaded up the Lucy Ferguson and motored across in a foul overcast day, with no ability to see the usual escort of dolphins, nor to peer around the protective hanging Plexiglas curtains to see the ruins of Dungeness towering above the coastal marsh. We passed near enough the Civil War Fort Clinch to see it, and got to the Greyfield dock where I pointed out the King’s Bay Sub Station and the giant buildings that service the Trident Submarine Navy fleet and the giant degaussing weir through which they pass the nuclear submarines to eliminate the charge they pick up under water. The idea has been that a charged particle that moves is vulnerable since it can be detected. In the slogan of the New Techno-Armada “If it moves or emits, we can kill it.” The Trident submarine with its twenty MIRVed missiles from the large silo hangars at King’s Bay is the remaining invulnerable third of the Strategic Triad of the Cold War. It can destroy many times over a nation we are presently propping up its economy with friendly aid. I have often asked, “Do any of these automatons with memory chips in their electronic brains all patterned to destroy a nation that no longer exists—the Soviet Union—know or have heard since they came up from the incommunicado silence down there for three months or more at a time, that “The Game Has Changed?” I know I would not want to be angling for spotted sea trout inside the limits around this highly sensitive area that holds more than a third of the world’s destructive firepower in a futile embrace. I wonder how the porpoises blowing noisily as they surfaced near me escaped vaporization as they go up the IntraCoastal Passage edging close to the King’s Bay Trident Fleet?
I hopped out and got the Ford Ranger. We had been told by the captain of the Lucy Ferguson (not grandson Mitt Ferguson this time on the way in, who did pilot us on the way out) that we were wasting our time, since the NPS had hired a full time government hunter to shoot all hogs in an effort at “eradication” of the hog population of Cumberland Island, and in the last months he had shot (and left lie to rot) 4,500 hogs. This turned out to be a misquote, since it was told to him as four to five hundred hogs, and Mitt confirmed that it was 634 to be exact. Still and all, that is about one full cycle of piglets for these rapidly proliferating pests and threats to nesting turtles. The term “eradication” is a biologically absurd idea for the pressures of a single, even professional, hunter, and means that anyone who says this big word has not been in the thick places of the interdune meadows that I have fought my way through over entire regions that look like a legion of rototillers had been turned loose and let ride without steering.
With the stories of “eradication” still in our ears, I went to get the Ford Ranger and made a short-cut through the palmettos at the water’s edge to get the vehicle—and immediately busted into a brown bulldozer who scooted away from me in the thick grass, leaving a rippling wake behind him. “Eradication” indeed! All that the professional did is to reduce the number of dumb hogs by a biologically insignificant number and smarten up the remainder in a natural selection that has made this a very real hunt against an even more cagey prey! I do think the days when I would single handedly drop four hogs in a sequence with clean one shot kills may have passed; now we are going to have to hunt them up! And, I, for one, have come for a hunt, and not for a shoot! And I—and each of us-- got what we came for!
When I arrived, and loaded
newcomers Bill Webster and Dale Kramer on board, I stopped at
ARRIVAL
EXPLORING THE PRISTINE
IN THE PRIVILEGE OF SOLITUDE
I then took Dale and Bill Webster
to the ruins of
I took them around to the
natatorium, fallen in still further since I had first come to Cumberland and
the weathering of the masonry and collapse of the woodwork is about complete,
so that it will look like a wilderness as soon as the thorn tangles complete
the job, since the nasty modern invention of the IRS had eliminated the staff
of 450 servants that the Thomas Carnegie heirs needed to tidy up their summer
place. As we walked around to the giant
“birdbath fountain” out in front, I said I always see turkeys whenever I
explore along the Dungeness grounds, and I would take them over to the further
decayed Studebakers and touring cars of the Carnegie kin to see them. We
admired the cars, now further collapsed, as much as the mansion, and then
turned around and stumbled in to a flock of thirty big turkeys, most of them
long-bearded toms. It was a Kodachrome
moment, since I had carried an extra roll of film I gave to Bill Webster to put
into his bargain camera. I had my own
camera and a second one would be coming with Tom and Drew since I had packed it
up at
We
took a long walk on the beach at the lowest tide I have seen—with over 500
meters of sloping sand beyond the dunes to the gentle surf. The quiet lapping of the waters was all that
could be heard with the exception of the few shorebirds, and soaring pelicans, cruising
over horse and hog tracks in the sand under foot. There were no trawlers out shrimping as there
almost always are—perhaps due to the cold weather and full moon which brings
the shrimp into different patterns. We
had bought a few shrimp to try as sea trout bait—the only fish caught was a
baby bluefish. We saw the
And, here we are.
The history of the island and the
convoluted plans by which we have this precious access in such luxury adjacent
to the pristine and primitive wilderness I had tried to explain to each of the
participants—those who showed this time and those who did not, believing they could
“always do it another time”-- but it would be made most clear through a video
that Keith had told me about. The video
is “
With introductions all around, and
the menu explained and posted on the refrigerators, we had a chance to get to
know each other, and the rooms were assigned.
We had enough munchies and drinks to keep everyone entertained—and still
never ran out of any of these items with actual packing off island of some of
the $600 stock of Costco and Wal-Mart bulk volume items, according to Betty
Rose’s menu plans. We then sat down and
tuned in on the
An overeager developer had put in
place the high volume heavy duty electrical connections just like they are
buried on Hilton Head when the delicate compromise was reached with the
“Retained Rights” owners that turned this magnificent island into a masterpiece
of preservation, even to its “wilderness”—although everyone is carrying a
different definition of what a wilderness is—before the Aleutian Land
Bridge? Before the Internal Combustion
Engine? Before cell phones and
Internet? One of the island’s
inhabitants, Carol, has a very singular definition—there can be only one person
on
When we later learned from Mitt Ferguson that Carol was off island (I
thought she would be arrested if she left the sanctuary of her wilderness
island where she lives off road kill with only occasional visits from her
WE EXPLORE THE “CIVILIZED” END OF THE
THEN REGISTER FOR THE HUNT,
AND SCOUT THE WILDERNESS FOR OUR HOG
TREESTANDS
The video brought out the mystery, the fundamental primacy of the island that makes one confront oneself—probably one reason I keep returning and sitting in a tree. If I went there at pre-dawn to climb a half-millennium old live oak to perch amid the Spanish Moss to watch the dawn come in with the birds singing, the verdict would be that I have gone daft. But, since I carry a rifle, with the express intent of doing in a non-cuddly vermin, it is understood that I serve a useful purpose in that tree, other than the ideal place in this primal wilderness to contemplate this wonderful world and my place in it.
Jimmy Carter is interviewed among
others on the tape and says “There is no use in denying the unique special
nature of
We had a tire problem. The left tire was soft when we picked up the
gar and the last passengers, but there is an air compressor at
I called Craig and found that he
and David were at the Greyfield dock in Fernandina expecting to take the
The run was wonderful. Since I had no camera, I did not shoot the
one blur I had thought was a hog vanishing into the interdune meadows and I
brought Tom and Drew to the Loggerhead turtle skeleton when I returned 12 miles and 90 minutes later. I packed up Bill and others and went down to
the South End of the Island to Dungeness Beach, to show them more horses, after
dropping the others off on the Greyfield dock to try to catch sea trout. This is the right time of year to be doing
this, but it has to be done on the rising tide.
We saw Mitt Ferguson and promised him soft-shell crabs and talked about
wooden buy boats which he was interested in getting for a project for his
elderly Dad to work on. Bill Webster
knows one in
We went back to pick up Craig and David. David’s friend Sage Baker, all licensed up, was called as they were about to pick him up, and he said “Nah, I don’t want to go after all!” So much his loss, but I am chaffing over the waste of the coveted limited slots in this last of the hunts that are not going to come again. I have a short select list for the future if there is to be another hunt after the tougher regulations that narrow it down and make it harder, and there will be no no-shows in the new list. Craig had got a new Spanish .308 assault rifle with all the fixings and he wanted to sight it in, so he gave me his Georgia license and I went up to Plum Orchard with all the others to register in and then scout our spots.
Rene was checking us in. She reported that we were the 53rd hunters
and we had our half dozen pre-paid no-shows.
Fifteen hogs were shot on the first hunt, and they were fewer and harder
to get, but there were still more than enough out there to be hunted and to
tear up the island. She said a new Park Superintendent
was appointed getting rid of the last one who had made Don move, but now a new
NPS Ranger named Eric Ullitallo had come in, and he was eager to set his own
rules—pertaining to safety and driving—but he was fair and safe, and
pro-hunter. We gave our license numbers
for the nine of us hunting, and sang happy birthday to her, since our visit
always coincides with her birthday, on the
We showed the Plum Orchard mansion
briefly, before going up the main road to Oyster Pond Trail, where I took the
newcomers and spread out the others to scout.
I hiked in, as dry as I have ever seen it, with no water nor even mud in
the Oyster Pond itself on which we usually have to hop over on
I had gone to show the graves of Nathanial
Green and Lighthorse Harry Lee (his bones were later moved by Act of the Virginia
Assembly to lie next to those of his Grandson, a superb military general who
ended his days as a college president in the
There was one more tourist visit—I whisked
them north to view the wharf which was the ferry boat stop before the Coastal
railroad was completed and the
HOG HUNT:
OK, NO MORE
MISTER NICE GUY!
Monday morning, everyone was up at
We sat near the truck eating a little lunch until everyone assembled, then I drove up toward South Cut Trail for a drive through the thick stuff with everyone but Dale, Rich and me standing where they could see, and the three of us going through the impossible thickets to cover the dense hog sign to drive out any pigs in the thick stuff to those on watch.
I turned out to be the one on watch as I drove. I whirled around and said “First timers get our and load your guns!” as I had spotted two black hogs. Drew and Tom took off after one, and Dale shot at one which Rich also shot at. Drew puffed out a bunch of muzzle smoke, and Tom fired twice. The second (bigger) hog went down and then it scrambled into the palmettos. We looked for it—I trekking in unarmed, but saw no trace. But, if the name of the game is “eradication” we are doing what the professional hunters are supposed to do. Rich gutted out the first hog, and we hung it in a tree before starting our drive through the thickest of the stuff just as it began to get really warm. At lunch later, I walked right up to a brown hog in the palmettos that swapped ends when I called for the first-timers to come up front. I then made tight circles in the palmettos to drive him out and each of those standing watch heard the hog move around just outside my range of sight and it never showed itself. As I say, they are getting clever with the pressure of professionals.
We scouted some more and made long walks in the open park-like range of the hardwood ridges, spooking armadillos but no hogs. At the evening and following mornings we were in our assigned trees, and heard and saw action around us when it became light enough, but we shot no more hogs. It hardly mattered.
We had a good time. We ate too well, told lots of stories, saw a very beautiful environment, and each of the first timers except Bill got shots on game, and everyone saw game aplenty, most of it off limits. I never pulled the trigger, but I am the one who has shot more hogs than anyone but the professional hunter who is paid to do it—nice work, fellow!
We are making the world safe for
nesting turtles, but also doing something inside ourselves. I envy the father and son hunts. I wish I could keep doing this indefinitely,
but that would take some of the poignancy and preciousness out of it—like life.
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